copy vs editorial
There is emotional factor in it
The copy is almost like a weapon
Can be persuasive
You write with a clear intention
Stick to a brief, still keeping creativity and style.
focus on the nature of the target audience so that your message are crashed with them in mind.
Sell the benefits, not the features
Don’t tell your target audience what your products have or what it does, tell them how and why it will improve their lives
Like how it makes their life totally different.
Start out with a BANG
First line of copy has to grab the reader and pull him in
Keep it simple.
it has to be attractive for people to take notice.
In a commercial, the first 5secs must be the most interesting.
A good copy:
Focuses the reader’s attention
Conveys an idea
Persuades the reader to believe that an idea is relevant
leaves the reader with a positive experience of the brand, then go through to the words of mouth.
Calls for action, it makes the person want to purchase it immediately.
Social media ding ding
Name is the thing by which a brand is remembered and discussed. Brands that pick a good name find that half of th marketing and branding work is done for them.
Mac Donalds, Starbucks
The identity has been established into the brains of the target audience
Six good name criteria:
Brevity (A few words)
Easy to say and spell out
Extendibility :Fairprice, Fairprice finest, Fairprice Xtra
Types of names:
These are latin/grelek names or based on fun rhythmic sounds
Directly from place of origin
Ford, Harley Davidson
Similar to description names but focused on the experience
Eg. Land Rover
Simple of catchy phrase that accompanies a logo/brand
Product’s appeal/mission of the firm, more memorable
Slogans are used to convey the message about the product or cause that it is representing.
The promise that the brand is giving you
Good when it is one short phrase. 3-5 words
memorable and durable
(Im loving it)
Positive imagery about trade or product
Element of immediacy (cognitive impact)
Idiomatic or vernacular (original lang)
concrete and specific to audience
Sounds right and can be applied to any of the design collaterals
Contains a key benefit. Don’t always need to express the benefit, but need to hint or imply one.
Types of slogan:
Putting periods in the middle of (Not worth doing)
are you allowed to glue two separate pieces of cement?
Can you mix more than 1 materials?
Does it have to have any meaning?
We just had a creative and craft workshop to do marbling, conducted by Ms Jessica. We were given a demonstration on how to marble items!
(photo of Ms Jessica teaching)
First we had to prepare a metal tray of water, a satay stick and a protective layer over the table. To use the marbling paint, we had to be quick! Drip and splat the paint across the water quickly and use a satay stick to create your own swirl patterns before it dries. Then place your object or paper over the surface, then remove the excess paint with the satay stick. You have your marbled object! You need to spray a layer of matt spray to ensure the paint stays on the object. If you wish to take your time with the patterns, a water bath was needed.. though I am not too sure what is it.
We then tried it out with EVERYTHING.
From phone covers to papers to our cement , to our hands, my prototype, face mask. The colours and patterns produced was really interesting! We had a lot of fun trying out different colour combinations. My favourite is the pink and turquoise combi. The colours do not mix to form new colours, they only mix to form new patterns.
We were also offered other alternatives, such as using shaving foam and food colouring.. and also graffiti paint sprayed upwards. We need alternatives because marbling paint is so expensive ): They are about 3 dollars for a small bottle and it is only most effective for half a day. I have one set! It cost 19 dollars for only 5 colours. Despite the price, the quality was still far from the ones we used in school.
This C&C W was one of the most enjoyable lessons we have had! It was truly therapeutic to watch a plain object become so pretty.
Here are some of what I did.
Somehow I feel that my works are always not as nice as the ones done by my friends. Perhaps because I am always eager to place my object in before it dries up that I dont take time to consider the patterns formed.
Today is cement experiment day..! Again..
We received the brief for our cement workshop, to create a hybrid. Hence I have been trying to mix materials with cement.
Here are a list of things tat I have tried:
Cement and wax. Previously I made a short cylinder using white cement. It was coloured very light blue using food dye. It turned out to become very fine and powdery. Hence I used it for another experiment! Wax and cement.
I first lighted a tea candle, and placed a metal spoon over the flame. I broke a tea candle into half and placed the candle pieces on the metal spoon to melt them. Then I put in a bit of coloured crayons for colour. It was very fun to drip the wax on the cement and create patterns. However over time when the wax dried it was pretty unsightly, the surface was uneven. Just when I was about to discard it, I decided to use an open flame to melt everything together. WALAAAAH! The colours mixed and from an even shiny surface. This technique can be employed with more colours and sensible patterns if I wanted it to look even better.
Secondly I took some psylaa beads(they are sold in Ikea) and mixed it with cement. I wanted the cement to be completely saturated with cement so that it even overflows to the surface! However it didnt happen because the beads then to sink to the bottom of the mould. Hence I mixed in even more beads and even scattered them on top. When it dried, a lot of the beads dropped off, but there was still a considerable amount inside. Most importantly I wanted to break it into half to see what is inside.. It turned out really pretty! My concern now is to consider how to shape it to the way I want it to turn out.
I also tried to use psylaa beads by arranging it nicely at the surface of the cement. but when it dried, the beads started to fall off and the cement cracked quite badly (possibly because of the hard mould) My initial plan was to iron the beads down i they stuck nicely on the cement.
When exploring wood and cement, I thought of matchsticks. I thought it would look good to combine matchsticks and cement together. I have to ensure that the consistency of the cement is not too watery, otherwise the matchstick will not be able to stand well. Other forms of wood are twigs, tooth picks, chopsticks. But the matchstick is most interesting! When dried, you can strike all the matches at once hehehe! Also the dried cement showed white streaks. I believe it was because I didnt mix the grey and white cement properly.
I also tried to add colours using acrylic and poster paints.
I added gold and silver acrylic colours to white cement and mixed it. But the colours didnt look very nice..
I added dried flakes of poster paint and paint to the cement. I liked it because it reminded me of confetti! Unfortunately the cement didnt set very well. This also happened to one of my classmate. She mixed her cement generously with poster paint but it ended up as only a mush.
I collected twigs as props for my photography assignment. As I laid the twigs I had the idea to combine a long piece of wood that I found with a strainer just for fun. However Because the twig had a bark that was flaking, I scrapped the bark off with a penknife. I also made a slant flat surface so that the strainer can stick to the wood .
Tito comment was “this is cute!”
(I was looking at the theme of man made vs nature.)
However I should think about how I can make my strainer look like an actual seamless product. First I should observe the shapes and structure of the branches at I see, let nature do it’s job. Our job is to find what nature has done and put two and two together.
Hence I went back and refined on my idea.
First I needed to work on a larger strainer because I foresee my branch to be a bit bigger. I managed to find a strainer at a mama shop at Fajar, it cost only 2 dollars and was a good size. HOWEVER.. the handle that it was attached to was very very sturdy.It took my helper and I, a chisel, pliers and a hammer to remove the metal handle. When we finally removed the handle we hugged in joy!!
I then attached a very beautiful branch that Tito found in the studio. I used my trusty (now new) E6000 to attach my branch to the strainer.
However I felt that it was still too odd and empty. The transition between nature and man made was too abrupt. I decided to turn the strainer into a bird nest! I attached the other twigs that I collected onto the strainer and tried my best to cover all the metal frame, leaving the actual strainer.
YAY it was approved! Ding Ding!
(Mmm.. But I realized that most people actually enjoyed the idea of the material reversal more than the bird nest idea. I just because it is a far more ridiculous and useless than a bird nest strainer which feels just surrealistic. Hence I am still not sure if I am making the right move. My lecturers had nice things to say about my friend’s ideas but I feel that mine was nothing too special while not too shabby. I do wish to try out new ideas but I dont think I have the time to start completely from a new idea. My plan now is to ensure that the production of the strainer is flawless and beautiful)
Strainer part 2
I just had a consultation with the lecturers today about my sketches.
Just as I expected, the sketches weren’t the most satisfactory. Andri mentioned that my some of my ideas are not meeting the brief. Hence they suggested some ideas to me instead! Such as..
Inverting the materials of the strainer. Some strainers have wooden handles: like this one!
Inverting the materials means that the handle should become the strainer with the net and the strainer should just be a wooden bowl, or simply be left empty to become the handle!
I think I would be willing to try that out because it’s quite interesting!
I also mentioned that strainers are meant for straining noodles. Tito then evolved the idea to making the strainer out of noodles. it is absolutely absurd indeed! However I believe that the execution would be tidious.
An idea I proposed to try was to create a strainer with very large holes. I would require some wires to create this.
Strainer part 3
I bought the strainers and created something with it. I had to go all the way to Daiso at Dhoby Gaut because the Daiso at JCube had a limited variety of strainers.
I first tried my best to remove the net of the large strainer. I cut it with a pair of scissors, a penknife and it didn’t work. A wire cutter didn’t do much as well. Finally I tried to use a mini saw to remove the mesh and..IT WAS VERY PAINFUL. TThe wire mesh was protruding and poking me from the way I was tearing the mesh away from the strainer and from the uneven mesh ): I observed the way the wire mesh was attached to the strainer body. However because the metal frame was very strong, it was difficult to pry it open throughout. (Update: Another student doing the strainer managed to do it nicely!)
Since I now had a wire mesh at hand, I tried to shape it to form something interesting. Unfortunately it didn’t turn out too well. While it was malleable, it still required some effort and practice to mould the mesh into desired shape.
Following the idea of a useless strainer, I tried to create a strainer weaved with a wire mesh that is cut.. I don’t know how to explain it!! Let me draw instead..
It didn’t turn out too well because I couldn’t attach the wire mesh nicely onto the metal frame. Also the wire mesh was messy at the ends because I cut it with a pair of meat scissors. A wire cutter weren’t able to cut it because the weaved wires were close together. HAH! So thats when I scrapped that idea.
I then removed the second wire mesh from a smaller strainer. This time it was easier! My mum taught me to push the strainer out. I was about to make the inversion come trueeeee.. hehe.
I placed the mesh over the handle. The handle was not a complete metal rod, but a rod folded to this shape : (DRAW)
Hence I was able to create the strainer by placing the mesh over the handle and folding down the sides. Of course it was painful, my fingertips were very raw and I didn’t have proper gloves. I think I should invest in one starting from now. I even tried to put socks on my hand to prevent all the poking and pricking! I ended up taping my fingertips so that I can fold the mesh in.
Only then did I realise my trusty old E6000 has dried up over the holidays. Hence I used some clothes pegs to secure the wire mesh to the handle. It was helpful because the circular part of the peg would force the mesh to conform to the shape of handle. (:
The next day I got some glue and this is how it turned out!
Moreover the white cement was very fine, hence when it was dry it became powdery.
I purchased white cement from my friend! It cost abt 2dollars per kg.
The night before I tried colouring cement with food dye. Unlike white cement, using colouring on grey cement dye would not allow the colour to show.
I added a little food dye, while the colour blue showed up quite well, it didnt really show much when I used yellow or a mixed green.
I didnt exactly feel like it was cement when dried because of the powdery feeling. It feels more like clay!
When I was mixing the white cement with water, it feels very very light. Almost like a thin batter. This caused all the cement to splat all over the floor and me. Thankfully I wore an apron since I was doing this at home. Not a lot of water is needed to produce the desired consistency.
I also tried to mix grey and white cement. The texture is better now, I was able to achieve a lighter colour without having to mix too much water.
Tips from my friends:
To prevent clumping of industrial cement, you can sift it! Discard the debris and rocks inside the cement. It is necessary for industrial cement because these rocks contribute to the strength of the cement and holds everything better together.
When you wish to add colour to grey cement, you can first add white poster paint before the colour that you wish to. However this will cause colours added to become muted. (Really reminds me of Japanese desserts!)
I also brought a small container of hardener home from school.
I experimented with the hardener and I am gg to do the drop test soon, stay tined for the results!
Oh mai, need to buy so many items again TT
Here is a list of what we needed for the Creative and Craft tmr:
Lucky us! Someone from class A ordered an entire 8kg bag of cement! It was a lot less expensive than the one from Overjoyed which cost $11! My class only paid 50cents.
We were then briefed about cement and how to mix it.
We started by putting about 2 bowls of cement into the mixing (pail). Then add water in parts while mixing the cement with the rice scoop. The consistency should be like chocolate mud!
More water–>Lighter, Smoother consistency
Less water–>Darker , Rougher consistency
With/without plastic mould lining:
With plastic lining: The cement had a sheen to it and was dryer when it first came out of the mould.
Without plastic lining: The cement was completely matt and was still moist when it came out of the mould. It should be because the cardboard without the plastic lining absorbed moisture and caused the water to be retained in the cement. When the cement is removed, bits of cardboard stuck to the cement.
However after it is left to dry for another 3 hours, it’s colour is that of the cement dried in a mould with plastic lining.
Our own mould
We created our mould using cardboard. For simplicity and easy reference I used the net of a cube to create a mould. The first one was made using the net with a shape of..(net cube). The second one is a square surrounded by 4 squares.
The lining is a plastic sheet that is spray mounted on the net. Even when the plastic sheet looks like it is mounted nicely on the cardboard, air bubble forms when the net is folded.
Hence the solution is to cut individual squares out to form the net. This will also facilitate the removal of cement from the mould.
Using plastic cups as mould
The cement in the mould eventually dried and popped out very easily.
Using silicone moulds
I saw from my friend’s end product and my own that silicone moulds tend to produce a sheen to it. Also from using the mould, I learnt to be consistent in my experiment by putting only 2 spoonfuls of cement in each hole.
Time it takes to dry:
Drying time for the cement takes about 1 and a half day.
We can add cement hardener for larger pieces of work.
After placing cement in the mould, we should bang the mould on the table or hit it so that the bubbles can rise to the top and pop. Bubbles in cement will cause it to become more porous when dry.